FEATURED RIDER:

Name: Brigit

Age: 15

Location: Montana

Primary horse's name: Amstel- "Dawkins"

Age, breed, pertinent info:

2002 (7 coming 8) Thoroughbred gelding. Has competed Prelim and (before I bought him) was ready to go CCI*. I bought him almost exactly 1 month ago. We bought him from Hawley Bennett, and he is already a strong eventer although he's only been competing for a year and a half. He LOVES jumping! Dressage he will tolerate and can actually be a quite nice mover if you ride him right and get him going. But jumping is really his strong suit, particularly cross country because he can, and likes to, gallop fast.

Level currently competing: Training

Short term goals this spring/summer:

Move up to Prelim, continue to go clear at all events at Training level and Prelim, and I'm really hoping to do really well at Rebecca Farm at Training level this year! Since it's my only "local" (3 hours compared to 11) event, and it's such an amazing one, I would really like to do well!

Year-end goals: Compete in the CCI1* at Galway Downs in November

Overall goals?

I want to compete in the NAJYRC at 1* and hopefully at 2* as well. I know Dawkins has the potential to go VERY far in eventing, so I want to get myself going at a high enough level to get HIM there. I want to improve our dressage, and not have ANY stops. Obviously, there's the classic overall goals every 15 year old eventer has as well, which are all my goals. Rolex, Olympics, etc.

What's the best thing you've learned recently? 

I spent all of last winter riding dressage. I didn't have a horse to ride, so I was taking 2-3 dressage lessons per week on dressage horses at my barn. Although I didn't jump a fence for 8 months, when I finally had the chance to jump again (when trying out Dawkins), my jumping was 1000 times better than it had been. Dressage really is the foundation for everything. A solid dressage base will improve stadium and cross country and you'll do so much better in eventing!
Dawkins also settles in to dressage better if I sit the trot rather than post. I have no idea why, but when he starts getting tense and flipping around in dressage, if I sit the trot he settles down almost instantly.

Favorite eventing moment/story? 

My favorite moment so far in eventing happened just this past weekend at Inavale Horse trials! I was out on the cross country course, and we were coming to the jump that I had been nervous about since I had walked the course, the Trakehner. Until I jumped it in the event, I had not jumped a trakehner on Dawkins, and had only jumped one twice before on a horse who had no business jumping something that size and I actually ended up falling off. So I was NERVOUS. I had been reassured by Hawley that he did FINE at trakehners, but I was still so nervous, especially because so many people had fallen off at that jump already! So as we came up to it, I was already putting my leg on, probably a lot more than I should. I know I was tense and not riding as well as I should have. But Dawkins just headed up to the trakehner and popped over it without a second of hesitation or a peek into the ditch. It's one of my favorite moments because I know he really will do anything on the cross country course!

Link to blog or website, if applicable: http://eventer4life.wordpress.com

Photos or videos: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_dzYj91uh8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKdy2me0Zlg&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jK1SUyXH_E&feature=channel - after owning him for 1 week. My second course on him ever.

"It's a good mix with experienced riders and some promising young horses. This will be a big step up for them, and we hope they will be in their prime for London 2012. We will then be looking ahead to Rio de Janeiro 2016. [Coach] Nick (Turner) is doing a fantastic job and must be one of British Airways best customers at moment! Next year our goal is the Pan American Games in Mexico (Guadalajara City) where we hope to qualify a Team for London 2012."

Tuesday of last week, I made the (right) decision to scratch my preliminary level entry; the ground was hard, and that horse really didn't need to go.  On a whim, I asked the event secretary if I could substitute a lower level entry.  She agreed (bless her!) and I had to choose a horse to enter.  My preferred (somewhat experienced) novice candidate was suffering from lost-shoe-itis, making him more or less unrideable for the past two weeks.  I was left with Rocket, the ex-broodmare, and the possibility of going beginner novice.  Keep in mind, she has only been in riding work since February.  She learned to jump at the end of March.  And her first attempt at cross-country was six weeks ago.

What the heck, I figured she could probably do it.  It wouldn't be pretty, we wouldn't be competitive, but I believed she could handle it.  I made the necessary arrangements (things like a last-minute Coggins!) and crammed as much preparation into her as I could in four days.  A quick jump, a brief xc school, and two days of "intense" beginner novice flatwork.  I had mostly worked on her relaxation and rhythm...not doing precise transitions at particular points around the arena (this proved most difficult).  But c'mon, any horse can walk, trot, canter a few big circles, right?  

Saturday morning we were off to the show.  I worried how she would act once we got there-- would she settle in her stall?  Would she be a "screamer," stall walking and whinnying her head off?  She's used to living outside 24/7 in a herd situation.  Would she eat and drink normally?  How would she handle being in a tent?  What about a crowded (and often CRAZY) warmup?  She'd hardly worked around other horses before.  There were lots of questions to answer, outside of the "can she finish three phases of a horse trial."

I needn't have worried.  She settled in like an old pro, munched her hay and enjoyed the activity around her.  She made friends with her neighbors, but did not become attached to them.  She was polite, respectful of her stall guard, and just extremely pleasant in general.  I was encouraged, though I knew the riding part would still be a challenge.

I'd already accepted that dressage was going to be ugly.  She'd never been in a dressage arena; I knew there would be gawking at letters, and possibly deer-in-headlights looks at the judge's booth.  I figured transitions would happen "in the general vicinity" of a letter, most likely inverted.  I just wanted to keep all four feet inside the arena, and not run over anything.  In that respect, it was a success.  She actually had two or three rideable moments, and her transitions were relatively prompt.  Yes, she was tense; yes, she was above the bit a lot; but she did her best, didn't dodge sideways at the letters, or prop and duck at the judge.  It was an ugly test to be sure, but considering her inexperience I was very proud.  We barely managed to break 50 (you know it's bad when your best comment is "Nice Turnout!"), putting us solidly in last place out of 16, but I was happy.

The show jumping course seemed fair enough for the level; I still saw lots of potential challenges for such a green horse, but I didn't think it would overface her.  She warmed up quite well, after nearly stopping cold at the first crossrail.  The chaos of BN warmup (kids on ponies flying around, others in minor panic) didn't seem to bother her at all.  We went straight into the show ring (surrounded by the flapping temporary tents) and she focused completely on me and the jumps in front of her.  Yes, I took the "scenic route" making big loopy turns...she still lacks a bit of balance, to be sure.  But Rocket approached the jumps with enthusiasm, and felt great.  Her only green moment came at the very end of the course-- the two-stride combination.  She came boldly through the turn, but did a typical green-horse prop-and-wiggle when she realized there were TWO jumps right there!  I gave her a kick and she jumped in anyway, knocking the rail (deservedly so), but straightening herself to jump out nicely.  A rail and three time penalties...I was pleased with her performance, and moreso with the confidence she displayed.  We moved up from 16th to 14th place; I told you I didn't expect to be competitive! (LINK to photo)

Cross-country seemed well within her capabilities.  Granted, that's the first BN course I've walked (with the intent to ride) in about eleven years...but given how well she has schooled (um, twice in her life) I thought she could do it.  I expected her to be green starting out, but I knew her confidence would build as we went.  As it turned out, she blasted out of the startbox (so much for trotting!) and attacked the course from the first fence.  Rocket settled into a great rhythm, and I hardly had to kick at anything.  The water had caused several issues for my division-- it was a narrow entrance, and too many riders were walking their horses to the beach and then letting them stop.  I cantered up to it, she broke a trot, but I kicked her on positively and she went right in. 

We finished the course with hardly a hesitation.  Just as that first xc school, her ears were up and her eyes were beaming, looking for more.  I had the same big grin on my face... now I *knew* I had myself a new event horse.  Yes, it was only beginner novice.  I have no idea how far she will want to go.  But overcoming her inexperience to perform as well as she did, with her confidence growing all weekend-- that's the best you can hope for from any horse. 

To top it all off, she moved up from 14th to 7th after cross-country.  A pretty purple ribbon...well-earned, and well-appreciated. 

more event photos

What are five types of colics?


What are some symptoms of colic?


What do you do if your horse colics?

Answers


Types

1. Spasmodic colic: this is caused by cramps or spasms of the bowel.

2. Gas colic: this is caused by a build up of gas in the intestines. Eating spoiled feed or grass clippings can result in fermentation, which produces gas.

3. Impaction colic: this is caused by indigestible material collecting and blocking the bowel. This can be caused by swallowing sand, lack of water, or enteroliths. An enterolith is  basically a stone that is found in the intestinal tract. It typically starts with a foreign piece of material and then minerals (that are found in feed) form around it to produce a rock.

4. Thromboembolism: (this is fun to listen to Pony Clubbers try and pronounce at their rating) this type of colic is caused by worm larvae that invade blood vessels that supply the intestines. A clot can form and block off blood supply to part of the bowel. (Part of why a consistent de-worming routine is important.)

5. Obstruction: this type of colic is caused by a twisted bowel, or when it "telescopes" on itself (intussusception). Lypomas are often a concern as well. A lypoma is a fatty tumor that is connected to a thin fibrous tail, the tail can then become twisted around parts of the bowel and cut off blood supply.

Symptoms

When horses are just beginning to colic the symptoms are usually relatively mild. They may start to look at their barrel, stop eating, or begin to act restless. They may also start to paw, curl their upper lip, stretch out as if to urinate, or lie down and get up multiple times. Pulse rate will be slightly higher.

As the pain becomes more severe, the horse can become violent, progressing from simply laying down and rolling, to thrashing. The horse may begin to look anxious, paw, kick or nip at his belly, and break into a sweat. Some make it really easy and just lay lateral and groan...loudly. Pulse rate will also elevate, as will respiration rate.


Your horse's mucus membranes (gums) can tell you a lot about his condition. A normal color is pale pink; some horses will be slightly injected (meaning you can see smaller darker veins). If his gums are bright red this could indicate mild shock or toxicity. If his gums are slightly blue it could indicate severe shock.  Normal saliva is runny and slippery; a sick horse will often have thicker, sticky saliva on his gums.

Knowing your horse's capillary refill time is helpful also. If you firmly press a finger to your horse's gums for 2 seconds (long enough to create a white mark), how long does it take for the color to return? A normal time is 1-2 seconds. Any longer could indicate dehydration or shock.

Gut sounds. If you have a stethoscope, use it. Place the stethoscope behind the last rib and listen for sounds. Typically a lack of sound is more indicative of a colic than an excess of sounds.

Every horse is different, so their reaction to pain will be different. It's very important to know your own horse and his vitals. Some horses can be incredibly painful, but so stoic that their heart rate and respiration rates will barely change. 

What do you do?

Record vitals (because I can never remember them) and call your vet. In cases of mild colic, Banamine will often be prescribed. Typically it's best to wait until your vet tells you to give medication otherwise you risk masking the pain that could help diagnose your horse. While waiting on your vet, walk your horse slowly and record vitals periodically. If he starts to pass gas or manure and vitals seem to be improving you can put him in a small paddock or stall and continue monitoring vitals. If condition worsens, its up to you and/or your vet to make the call on a hospital. 

FEATURED RIDER

Name: Amy

Age: 23

Location: Connecticut

Primary horse's name: Discotrax - barn name "Dee"

Age, breed, pertinent info:

4y/o TB mare, came off track last year.  I bought her in December, gave her most of the winter off, and started really working with her this spring.  I've now jumped her twice, and she has yet to put a foot wrong!  She seems very brave and pretty cute over the fences.

Level currently competing: Not competing quite yet!

Short term goals this spring/summer: Get her out cross-country schooling, go to a schooling dressage show and maybe a horse show to canter around some show jump courses.

Year-end goals: We're aiming to go BN at a few events this fall. 

Overall goals?

I would love for this mare to go Preliminary one day!  I've had a series of unfortunate events with my last few horses, and haven't gotten to do anything other than one BN (in 2008) since 2005, so I would really love to have a horse that I can get back into the competition game with.

What's the best thing you've learned recently? 

I've got one hip higher than the other, and it has always created a problem for me in the right lead canter (it's very hard to get myself moving with the horse).  I finally had a trainer tell me to get off and 'canter' on my 'left lead'.  After I did that a bit she said 'now, that feeling you have in your hips now is what I want you to go for on the horse'.  It sounds weird, but it worked.  Now whenever I'm feeling stuck, I do a little 'canter'.

Favorite eventing moment/story? 

I was at Old Chatham, going training.  My little mare misread a table going light-dark (later learned that she was rapidly going blind in one of her eyes, which explained it) and left early, sort of landing on the table with her front feet.  I ended up coming off and the horse went off galavanting.  However, she very kindly presented herself at the announcer's booth and allowed herself to be caught!  While the weekend was a huge disappointment, that still gives me a good laugh.

Link to blog or website, if applicable: dancefloormetaphor.blogspot.com

As part of our ongoing efforst to provide complete WEG coverage, here is an overview of the Belgian team's WEG prospects, kindly submitted by RL, an EN reader and Belgian team follower.

In late June, the Belgians released a training list and they shortened that list in mid-July to the following riders:

Virginie Cauliers
Jarno Debusschere (Admiral von Schneider)
Lara de Liederkerke (Nooney Blue)
Karin Donckers (Gazelle de la Brasserie or Lamicell Charizard)
Valentine Gernay
Lisa Sabbe (Steelbrook)
Sarah van Hasselt (Arctic Fox Too)
Joris van Springel (Limestone, Lully des Aulnes)

 

 

RL's thoughts: "I would personally be very surprised not to see Carl work his way onto the team, though he has been quite occupied stateside, lately. I could see him perhaps taking Charizard, even. This may not be the year for Jarno, unless he finds himself a horse, perhaps even Maxwell Steele. Lisa and Sarah are both young and new, but Steelbrook is a veteran and both Lisa and Sarah have been part of the national team trainings for some time now. Overall, Karin and Joris are the only no brainers."

Buck Davidson and Titanium
Phillip Dutton and Kheops du Quesnay

Polo wraps are your favorite fleecy friends used for leg protection during exercise when you forget your half chaps.  Also great for your horse, too!  Seriously though, polos are a suitable alternative to galloping boots when the need arises.  Generally I MUCH prefer a good set of Woof (or other brand, such as Nunn Finer) boots instead of wraps: faster to apply/remove, easier to clean-- just hose off--, and safe in most weather conditions.  As we all should know, polos are completely unacceptable for cross-country...they slip horribly when wet, causing disastrous results as they come unwound on a galloping horse.  Why, then, would you waste your time rolling all those polos, and spending hours untangling them from the dryer?

Polo wraps are perfect for sensitive-skinned animals.  They rarely rub, and are perfect to use after your horse has had its legs shaved (either body clipping white socks, or shaving for a tendon ultrasound).  I've learned the hard way...do NOT use a boot on a shaved leg, the friction will irritate the skin into blowing up huge!  Polos only, please.

I also have an "off-label" use for polos: instead of standing wraps for turnout.  Horses who live outside 24/7 occasionally have need for a standing bandage (a cut that needs sweating, for example) yet full-on standing wraps would be unsuitable.  Thick and bulky, standing wraps tend to soak up dew from the grass, and shift too easily on an outdoor horse, so I do NOT use them in turnout!   If I must wrap a leg, I'll use a polo wrap instead.  In such case, I'm careful to end the wrap higher on the ankle, to stay up out of the mud and wet grass, less likely to slip.  The wrap should be changed twice daily, and if there is much risk of it coming undone (rain! or anything but a quiet horse) do not use this method on unsupervised animals.

Because of the possibility of slipping down, use polos with caution: preferably for flatwork only.  If you do use them for jumping or fast work, be extra sure they are wrapped securely and keep an eye out for any loosening or displacement.  Don't use them in muddy or wet environments-- that's just asking for trouble!


How to Apply Polo Wraps:

Some methods (including the Pony Club Way...even though PC believes polos are the devil) call for unraveling the first 6" of material to use as a "protective strip" placed vertically down the tendons.  I generally don't see the need for this...it takes a little extra time, and honestly a thin extra layer of fleece isn't likely to provide much extra protection to the tendons anyway.

I start my polos just like any other wrap: place the edge of the tail-end along the inside of the leg, about 2/3 up the cannon.  Wrap from front to back, inside to outside, maintaining consistent tension.  Since there is no extra padding to disperse pressure, use extreme care not to wrap too tightly!  Wrap down the leg, overlapping with even spacing.  Go under the fetlock to "cup" it, making a nice V at the front to allow for flexion.  Continue back up the leg, even spacing, until you end just below the knee or hock.  Ideally, the velcro will fasten on the outside of the limb, to reduce the risk of the horse brushing it and loosening. 

The finished wrap should be neat and trim, following the contours of the leg nicely.  The polo should not be "tight," as it does not provide support.  The wrap should just be snug enough to maintain its position.

A "protective strip" down the back of the tendons.

Continuing the wrap down the "strip."

Starting the wrap normally, from the inside of the cannon bone. 

Continuing down the leg, making even overlaps with consistent tension.

The finished product.  Velcro ending on the outside of the leg.

Beginning the wrap on a hind leg: starting lower, about halfway down the cannon.

A finished hind wrap.  Note the centered "V" at the fetlock.

Hints for pretty polos:

-As with stable bandages, roll your polo wraps tightly!  I prefer to roll them on my knee, pulling some of the stretch to make it very snug as I wind up the bandage.  Your rolled polos should be very firm-- not loose-- when you're finished.  Tuck the corners under, throw the polo at a barnmate and she should respond with "Ow!!"  Otherwise, it isn't rolled tight enough (or you need to work on your aim.  Yes, long hours in the barn will make you seek strange entertainment at times, like pelting people with polos.  It is fun though.)

-New polo bandages are always awkward to use.  Thick and fluffy, they often look very bulky on the leg.  The new fleece is also "slick," and tends to slip.  Wash your polos as often as you can to "break them in."

-Older polos are the bomb.  A bit nappy, with some "pilling" on the fabric makes them grip better, becoming less likely to slip or shift.  Take care of the velcro, and your polos will easily last for years. 

-Speaking of velcro: it accumulates lint when you wash them.  Pick out as much as you can from the "hook" side, or else you run the risk of un-sticky velcro coming undone while you ride.  If the velcro loses its adhesion, don't use the wrap anymore!

-Select one or two colors and stick with it.  I know it's fun to "accessorize," but there is really no need to have a set of polos in fifty different colors.  They only get lost (one at a time), and you'll end up with mis-matched legwear.  Stick with white, black, navy (etc) so that as singles disappear over time, you can still have plenty that match.  Conservative colors also look good on a variety of horses.

-Nothing dresses up a horse better than a set of white polos for flatwork.  Something about the flashing optical illusion always makes a "decent" mover appear amazing.  Unless you have an endless supply of white polos, save a set of four for special occasions when you want that little bit of "pop."  White polos tend to stain, and the dingy-ness is not appealing.  Retire your old white polos to schooling use, and keep your others bright.  White polos look a little silly on light gray horses-- go for the contrast and use a dark color instead.

FEATURED RIDER:

Name: Susan a/k/a "SueCoo2" 

Age: 51 

Location: Houston, Texas 

Primary horse's name: Cross Fox Kelenna a/k/a "Kikki" 

Age, breed, pertinent info: 

Kikki is a five (5) year old 15.2 Connemara Thoroughbred cross I bought three years ago as an un-started two year old from breeder Beth Blankenship @ Cross Fox Farm in Versailles, Kentucky. She is extremely well bred with Grange Finn Sparrow and Leam Bobby Finn (Carna Bobby) and Ashfield Jovial in her Connemara lines. Ashfield Jovial Joker is one of the top sires of jumping ponies in Ireland. 

On her TB side her dam (Mistflower) is by With Approval who is a very good sire and his sire in particular Caro has an extremely good sport horse reputation. Denny Emerson's stallion Loyal Pal was by Caro. The Caro sire line horses are super athletic, correctly built and they love to jump. Mistflower traces to Boudoir, a VERY high class mare. Her daughter Lady Ambassador produced Coraggioso who was a top 'chaser. My thanks to both "Linny" and "Sassenach" from the COTH BB for assisting me in researching her lineage. 

Kikki and I had a rough start. I had some health issues (I'm a recovering alcoholic/addict) which needed addressing and it prevented me from really working and riding her in a consistent manner. She excels when in a consistent program and has an excellent work ethic. Kikki , though backed and started when she turned three, could be a little difficult. Though she is a "HOT" mare, she is the type of horse I have always been drawn to, as she is super smart and extremely brave. 

With my health issue addressed, a new set of goals, and a plan (see short term goals), we are forming a wonderful partnership and I am very much looking forward to our journey together. She has taught me patience, perseverance, trust, and humility. She's learning that our journey will be fun. 

Level currently competing: GAG / Beginner Novice 

Short term goals this spring/summer: 

To attend the Lucinda Green clinic in June at Greenwood Farm and to successfully compete at her first show. We'd like to end the summer with a trip to the beach for a good gallop, and a Jim Graham clinic in September. Year-end goals: To have a happy, healthy, and well educated horse who enjoys her work and our time together. For myself, to remain sober, develop my skill set and apply for the 2011 USEA Worth the Trust Scholarship. 

Overall goals? 

To one day do a Training 3Day. I also want to clinic with Jim Wofford (I loved his book "Take a Good Look Around") and attend a Denny Emerson Adult Eventing camp. Ultimately, I'd love to take Kikki to the AEC at Carl Bouckaert's farm Chattahoochee Hills one day. 

What's the best thing you've learned recently? 

That a horse can be the best medicine no matter what ails you. 

Favorite eventing moment/story? 

In 1998 I attended the first CCI **** event ever to be held in North America. The Rolex 3Day in Lexington, Kentucky. I was a "Hunter Princess" at the time and didn't really know a lot about the "crazy" sport of Eventing. All I knew was that they did three phases and jumped BIG solid obstacles. I met fox hunter extraordinaire Mat Simpson and a slew of other people I'd been communicating with on the COTH bulletin board. Here is a picture from the "The Officially Scheduled Internet Equestrians Rolex Bank Photo". That's me in the center knelling. As long as I live I will never forget what it was like to walk out there on that first **** course! It literally took my breath away. It was like the Wizard of Oz and I was Dorothy dropped into some amazing wonderland!! But unlike Dorothy, I NEVER wanted to go home! The horses were spectacular, the riding simply amazing and the camaraderie I witnessed and felt between the spectators and competitors was truly heartwarming. I fell in love the Spring of '98 with this amazing sport. 

Stephen Bradley and Brandenburg's Joshua
Phillip Dutton and Connaught
Holly Hudspeth and Last Monarch
Kim Severson and Tipperary Liadhnan
Allison Springer and Arthur

Buck Davidson and BallyNoe Castle RM
Buck Davidson and My Boy Bobby
Phillip Dutton and The Foreman
Phillip Dutton and TruLuck
Phillip Dutton and Woodburn
Will Faudree and Pawlow
Becky Holder and Courageous Comet
Boyd Martin and Neville Bardos
Boyd Martin and Remington XXV
Karen O'Connor and Mandiba
Amy Tryon and Leyland

Buck Davidson and BallyNoe Castle RM (11th Burghley 09, 15th Rolex 09)
Buck Davidson and My Boy Bobby (3rd Rolex 09)
Phillip Dutton and The Foreman (2nd Rolex 05, 2nd Burghley 05, 6th Rolex 10)
Phillip Dutton and TruLuck (4th Burghley 09, 9th Rolex 07)
Phillip Dutton and Woodburn (12th Rolex 09, 9th Rolex 08, 2nd Rolex 10)
Will Faudree and Pawlow (15th Rolex 10)
Becky Holder and Comet (since '07 - 2nd Rolex 08, 42nd Olympics 08, R Burghley 09, 3rd Rolex 10)
Boyd Martin and Neville Bardos (9th Rolex 08, 4th Rolex 10)
Boyd Martin and Remington XXV (12th Rolex 10)
Karen O'Connor and Mandiba (E Burghley, 44th Olympics, 7th Rolex 10)
Amy Tryon and Leyland (13th Rolex 09, 14th Burghley 09)

 All Wrapped Up:  Stable Bandages

Wrapping legs is a skill that every horse owner should have, and preferably before they actually need to do it. There's no need to routinely wrap a horse's legs, but it can be helpful in some situations:

Improperly-applied wraps can do a lot of damage. The blood supply to the tendons in the back of the horse's leg is easily compromised if the wrap is too tight, if it is applied with uneven pressure, or if it slips down and bunches up as a result.

How much tension to use when applying a wrap depends on the materials and is something you just have to learn by experience. A properly applied bandage will stay in place without slipping and will lie snug against the skin, but not snug enough to indent it. You should be able to slide a fingertip between the bandage and the leg.  Gentle twisting of the wrap should not allow it to slide around the leg.

Materials:

A stable bandage consists of a leg pad ("quilt") and an outer bandage.  The leg pad comes in several different styles: foam-filled, cotton batting, sheet cotton, "no-bows," etc.  Make sure the padding is adequate and even, without any lumps which could cause pressure points.  Most prefer Wilkers brand wraps (cotton outer, quilted flannel lining, foam padding between), or plain cotton-batting filled wraps.  An average horse will wear 14" quilts in front, 16" behind (18" for taller horses).  A very large horse will go up 2", smaller horses/ponies down 2". 

The outer bandage may be flannel, or the popular, colored polyester wraps. The polyester wraps stretch just a little, so be aware of this and don't pull them too tight!  Flannels are the traditional wrap of choice, but their lack of stretch means you have to work a bit to keep them wrinkle-free.  Whatever you choose, the wrap should be at least 10 feet long, preferably 12 feet so you don't feel "rushed" to finish a hind leg wrap. 

First, make sure the leg area that the bandage will cover is clean. Brush the hair so that it is lying smoothly.  Apply any topical medications that you wish to use (we will discuss poultice, liniments, sweats, etc in a future topic).

You can find several different sets of instructions on how to wrap legs properly. One frequently quoted says to always wrap from outside to inside, front to back, going clockwise on the right leg and counterclockwise on the left. However, if you're right-handed, the counterclockwise wrapping is awkward, making it difficult to apply smoothly, and vice versa if you're left-handed.

The important things to remember when bandaging are:

• Always start the wrap over bone, not the tendons.
• Bring the wrap around the front of the cannon bone first.
• End the wrap along the cannon bone as well.
  

Apply the leg pad so that it lies smoothly along the leg, with no wrinkles. While holding the padding in place lightly with one hand, begin the outer bandage by tucking it under the end of the cotton for a short distance, then wrapping in the same direction, first down to cover the fetlock joint, then back up again to end at the top of the leg. Each layer should overlap the one before by about half the width of the bandage.

One of the trickiest things to learn is where to start the outer bandage so that you finish wrapping at the top of the leg without too much bandage left over, or not enough left. This is going to depend on the length of your bandage (9 or 12 feet), the width (between 4 and 6 inches) and how much stretch it has, as well as how long the horse's cannon bone is. In most cases, you're just going to have to experiment with your bandaging materials to find out what works best, but in general the outer bandage is started anywhere from halfway up the cannon bone to just above the fetlock joint, worked down to take in the fetlock, then brought back up again.

When you first start learning to wrap legs, you'll feel like you could use at least one other hand and will likely botch your first attempts. Be patient. Like any skill, it just takes practice.  The more you wrap, the better you will be at maintaining even tension throughout, and knowing your materials.  Having someone experienced give you a few hands-on lessons is very important! 

What makes a good wrap?

Even tension!  Consistent pressure from inside to outside, top to bottom.  You can use FIRM pressure, so long as it is the same throughout the leg.  Use the "thump test" (flick the finished wrap with your finger) to listen for tight or loose spots. 

Practice!  The more you use your wraps, the more comfortable you will be knowing where to start/end for the best finished product.  For instance, I know with my 9' wraps, I will have ten revolutions around the leg until I reach the velcro.  I like to have four circuits down to the ankle, then six remaining circuits to finish it off below the knee.

Patience!  Don't be in a hurry.  Take as long as you need to ensure the wrap is the best you can do.  If you feel it may slip down, wrinkle, or be too tight, take it off and start over. 

Good materials.  Use good-quality leg padding, and flannels/wraps of good length with strong velcro.  I prefer velcro at least an inch wide, instead of the thin half-inch strips that never seem to hold well (and create excess pressure).  Roll your wraps tightly!!  This makes it MUCH easier to maintain a snug wrap with even tension, when the wrap practically unrolls itself around the leg.

And now, the Goddess of Grooms will demonstrate everything you need to know about a proper stable bandage:

Saturday, July 10th, is the National Don't Step on a Bee Day, National "Clerihew" Day, National Hop-A-Park Day, and Independence Day in the Bahamas.  I only wish I was making those up, but, of course, there is a website (actually several) dedicated to keeping track of all the random national days.  

Did Descartes 
Depart 
With the thought 
"Therefore I'm not"?

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