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A Kentucky Wildcat?  My kind of clip!

It's approaching wintertime (or deep in season, for those to the North) which means it's necessary to de-robe your horse of his primitive yakness and alleviate overheating problems.  This ritual is known as body clipping...the process of creating a wholly- or partially-naked horse and thereby replacing that hair onto yourself, down your shirt and into every possible crevice.  Here's a tip: don't apply a thick layer of chapstick just before you start.  Thppt thhhppt!

Of course, practical body clipping has evolved into an intricate art of expression.  Why not have fun with it?  Just remember: you can always take hair off, but you can't put it back on! 

Some loyal EN readers have sent us photos of their latest work.  Feel free to share yours at eventingnationteam@gmail.com. 

Three-day Preparation Step 1:  Passport

With the coming of autumn, that can mean only one thing: time to prepare for a fall three-day!  In the coming weeks, we'll explore the ins and outs of CCI preparation, including my favorite subject: the (REAL) ten-minute box.  But before we can get to the groom's shining moment, let's take care of some little stuff.

Besides a qualified rider and a good groom, any CCI horse needs a passport.  At the CIC* to CCI** level, a national passport is sufficient.  However, at the CIC*** and above, an international (FEI) passport is required. 

What is a passport?  Essentially a "mandatory donation" to an equine governing body ($50 for USEF, $300 for FEI).  In actuality, it is a booklet recording the horse's identity, ownership, influenza vaccination records, and travel/competition history.  It expires every four years (requiring a $175 renewal fee).

To be elligible for a passport (USEF or FEI), the horse must be life recorded ($200) with the USEF.  The owner should be an active member of USEF, and a US Citizen. 

Have you noticed this passport deal is an expensive process?  And you thought the CCI entry fee was the big ticket item!  Luckily the lower FEI levels can get by on a national passport, and the international booklet lasts for four years.

How to fill out your FEI passport:  (from the USEF site)

Familiarize yourself with the passport, the horse identification booklet (if you can't find this, you can go get the information from the FEI web site), and the passport directions provided. Make certain that these documents are then given to the veterinarian for use in completing the passport. The cover page of the passport has the horse's name, passport number, and the issue and expiration dates. This passport will remain with the horse for the remainder of its life but must be revalidated every four years. The next area to review is the Details of Ownership section. The owner is responsible for filling out a portion of the Details of Ownership page; this is explained in the directions.

Next, a licensed equine veterinarian must examine the horse and document their findings in the passport itself. At this point, it is imperative that all material sent with the passport be read carefully - especially by the veterinarian, but also by the owner. Passports are often returned for corrections because the directions were not followed completely and correctly. On the last page of the directions, there is a sample diagram sheet that the veterinarian can use to practice before permanently marking anything in the passport.

Filling out the passport, especially the horse identification diagram, is extremely particular.

The markings, which must be accurately drawn in red ink, together with the description of the horse must be dated and certified with the stamp and signature of the veterinarian approved by the NF.   

From the passport directives:

Complete "Outline Diagram" using a red ball point pen to outline white markings.  There should be no shading, but it can be lightly hatched.  A black ball pointe pen should be used to indicate whorls and other markings.  Particular attention should be paid to whorls (show "x") on the head, neck, and jugular region, and to rear view of fore and hind legs.  A permanent scar is indicated by an arrow pointing to the site.  A depigmented area on a hoof is indicated by a sketch and colored in red.  Horses without any markings and with only three or less whorls must have the outline of each chestnut drawn on page 9.

Influenza Records

Besides drawing a pretty picture of your horse, the main purpose of the passport is to record flu vaccinations.  From the USEF site:

When the veterinarian has completed the diagram and description pages, they must document that the horse has had its primary series of influenza vaccinations. The primary series consists of two influenza vaccinations using the same method of administration (IM or IN) given between 21 to 92 days apart. A booster vaccination must be administered within every SIX MONTHS following the primary series. The booster can be intramuscular or intranasal. This information must be entered in the passport on the influenza pages: date of administration, place, country, name of vaccine, batch number, vet stamp and signature. All details must be recorded in order for the vaccination(s) to be considered valid. Only the veterinarian who administers the vaccine to the horse may record the inoculation in the passport. Transferring vaccines on behalf of another veterinarian is not acceptable. Make sure the veterinarian signs and stamps the passport in the appropriate places (see directions sent with new passports for examples).

So now you have a completed passport...now you must send it back to the FEI (via USEF) for validation and approval.  Do not wait until the last minute!  This process may take 4-6 weeks, so start well in advance of your FEI competition.

And just when you think you're done... remember that horse and rider must be registered with the FEI (yes, this is separate from the passport!).  This is an annual recording, $25 each, renewable every year.  If needed, this registration can be completed in a very timely manner...like the week of the event, when you realize you forgot to do it at the beginning of the year. 

So now the USEF and FEI is many dollars richer, but you are up to date and legal in all registries.  Next week we will (attempt) to dissect the murky region of FEI qualifications.  Bring a flashlight and a snorkel, as the rulebook can be difficult to navigate.  When all else fails, call the USEF office and ask for help!

Poultice is essentially wet clay used to draw heat and inflammation from a horse's legs.  It may be used alone, or (most often) under a standing bandage.  Some people may say that "mud" doesn't do very much...but having used it on myself for a severe bone bruise, I can assure you that it does work!  It feels like a soothing ice pack for about three hours, absorbing heat and swelling as it dries. 

Frequently, poultice is used after a strenuous workout (like a gallop or cross-country), or as part of a treatment regimen for an acute injury (bowed tendon, etc).  It should be applied about an eighth- to a quarter-inch thick around the desired area.  It can be irritating to broken skin; check your horse's legs thoroughly after cross-country, and do not cover any cuts or scrapes with poultice (or you may have a hugely-swollen leg the next morning!).  Use a wound ointment, like triple antibiotic, to protect the wound from any accidental poultice coverage.

When used under a standing bandage, wrap the leg with wet paper on top of the poultice.  This keeps it moist a little longer so it won't dry out too quickly; and it keeps your wraps clean.  Brown paper (often cut from a feed bag) is the traditional material, but it can be stiff and wrinkly when dried.  Instead, I prefer to use disposable blue shop towels-- they conform to the leg nicely, are pre-cut in a good size, and come off in one piece for easy removal.  In a pinch, any paper product will work...normal paper towels (the Quilted Quicker Picker Upper rocks), and even ripped pages from your event program can be used (though the newstype may rub off on white legs).

To remove the poultice, it can often be brushed off with a soft curry when dry.  If it is still wet, just hose it off.  For Sunday jogs, shampoo the legs thoroughly to remove any leftover white poultice dust... very tacky on dark legs!  If your horse has white legs, though, poultice dust leaves them extra bright and sharp.  (Thank goodness for small favors!)

Poultice comes in many different brands and varieties; some have additives like alcohol or menthol to induce an extra "cooling" sensation.  Some of these extra ingredients, however, may show up in a drug test (there was a scandal about this several years ago).  Your best bet is to use a plain, simple white clay poultice.  Uptite and FinishLine (blue lid, non-medicated) are my favorites.  They go on creamy smooth, and are pretty easy to remove the next morning.

Other poulticing hints:

-Wet your hands before grabbing a glob of mud.  This keeps it from sticking to your skin, and so is more likely to stick to the horse's hair, and not glop on the ground.  Dunk your hands often into a bucket of water to keep them moist, and dripping a bit of water into the poultice tub is a good thing, keeps it "slippy" and from getting too dry.

-For less mess, use latex gloves.  This will avoid the "crusty white leftover-nail-polish" look on the cuticles of your fingernails. 

-Scrape excess poultice off your hand (or glove) onto the rim of the poultice bucket; it cleans your hands and you can re-use it without wastage.

-Tie up the horse's tail BEFORE you start!  Inevitably, you will forget this step when you begin to poultice the horse's hind legs.  And the tail will swish right into the poultice, becoming covered in sticky white mud.  Knot it well!

-I usually apply the poultice in pairs and cover with paper, then wrap both.  I've found this the easiest way to avoid a big mess.  I hate when shavings sticks to the poultice leg, so I try to finish it quickly.

-Speaking of shavings...another big pet peeve is shavings/hay in the poultice bucket!  Keep the lid on it as much as possible, to prevent irritating debris from contaminating your clay.  Horses will stomp at flies, sending footing flying like a magnet to your tub of poultice.

Polo wraps are your favorite fleecy friends used for leg protection during exercise when you forget your half chaps.  Also great for your horse, too!  Seriously though, polos are a suitable alternative to galloping boots when the need arises.  Generally I MUCH prefer a good set of Woof (or other brand, such as Nunn Finer) boots instead of wraps: faster to apply/remove, easier to clean-- just hose off--, and safe in most weather conditions.  As we all should know, polos are completely unacceptable for cross-country...they slip horribly when wet, causing disastrous results as they come unwound on a galloping horse.  Why, then, would you waste your time rolling all those polos, and spending hours untangling them from the dryer?

Polo wraps are perfect for sensitive-skinned animals.  They rarely rub, and are perfect to use after your horse has had its legs shaved (either body clipping white socks, or shaving for a tendon ultrasound).  I've learned the hard way...do NOT use a boot on a shaved leg, the friction will irritate the skin into blowing up huge!  Polos only, please.

I also have an "off-label" use for polos: instead of standing wraps for turnout.  Horses who live outside 24/7 occasionally have need for a standing bandage (a cut that needs sweating, for example) yet full-on standing wraps would be unsuitable.  Thick and bulky, standing wraps tend to soak up dew from the grass, and shift too easily on an outdoor horse, so I do NOT use them in turnout!   If I must wrap a leg, I'll use a polo wrap instead.  In such case, I'm careful to end the wrap higher on the ankle, to stay up out of the mud and wet grass, less likely to slip.  The wrap should be changed twice daily, and if there is much risk of it coming undone (rain! or anything but a quiet horse) do not use this method on unsupervised animals.

Because of the possibility of slipping down, use polos with caution: preferably for flatwork only.  If you do use them for jumping or fast work, be extra sure they are wrapped securely and keep an eye out for any loosening or displacement.  Don't use them in muddy or wet environments-- that's just asking for trouble!


How to Apply Polo Wraps:

Some methods (including the Pony Club Way...even though PC believes polos are the devil) call for unraveling the first 6" of material to use as a "protective strip" placed vertically down the tendons.  I generally don't see the need for this...it takes a little extra time, and honestly a thin extra layer of fleece isn't likely to provide much extra protection to the tendons anyway.

I start my polos just like any other wrap: place the edge of the tail-end along the inside of the leg, about 2/3 up the cannon.  Wrap from front to back, inside to outside, maintaining consistent tension.  Since there is no extra padding to disperse pressure, use extreme care not to wrap too tightly!  Wrap down the leg, overlapping with even spacing.  Go under the fetlock to "cup" it, making a nice V at the front to allow for flexion.  Continue back up the leg, even spacing, until you end just below the knee or hock.  Ideally, the velcro will fasten on the outside of the limb, to reduce the risk of the horse brushing it and loosening. 

The finished wrap should be neat and trim, following the contours of the leg nicely.  The polo should not be "tight," as it does not provide support.  The wrap should just be snug enough to maintain its position.

A "protective strip" down the back of the tendons.

Continuing the wrap down the "strip."

Starting the wrap normally, from the inside of the cannon bone. 

Continuing down the leg, making even overlaps with consistent tension.

The finished product.  Velcro ending on the outside of the leg.

Beginning the wrap on a hind leg: starting lower, about halfway down the cannon.

A finished hind wrap.  Note the centered "V" at the fetlock.

Hints for pretty polos:

-As with stable bandages, roll your polo wraps tightly!  I prefer to roll them on my knee, pulling some of the stretch to make it very snug as I wind up the bandage.  Your rolled polos should be very firm-- not loose-- when you're finished.  Tuck the corners under, throw the polo at a barnmate and she should respond with "Ow!!"  Otherwise, it isn't rolled tight enough (or you need to work on your aim.  Yes, long hours in the barn will make you seek strange entertainment at times, like pelting people with polos.  It is fun though.)

-New polo bandages are always awkward to use.  Thick and fluffy, they often look very bulky on the leg.  The new fleece is also "slick," and tends to slip.  Wash your polos as often as you can to "break them in."

-Older polos are the bomb.  A bit nappy, with some "pilling" on the fabric makes them grip better, becoming less likely to slip or shift.  Take care of the velcro, and your polos will easily last for years. 

-Speaking of velcro: it accumulates lint when you wash them.  Pick out as much as you can from the "hook" side, or else you run the risk of un-sticky velcro coming undone while you ride.  If the velcro loses its adhesion, don't use the wrap anymore!

-Select one or two colors and stick with it.  I know it's fun to "accessorize," but there is really no need to have a set of polos in fifty different colors.  They only get lost (one at a time), and you'll end up with mis-matched legwear.  Stick with white, black, navy (etc) so that as singles disappear over time, you can still have plenty that match.  Conservative colors also look good on a variety of horses.

-Nothing dresses up a horse better than a set of white polos for flatwork.  Something about the flashing optical illusion always makes a "decent" mover appear amazing.  Unless you have an endless supply of white polos, save a set of four for special occasions when you want that little bit of "pop."  White polos tend to stain, and the dingy-ness is not appealing.  Retire your old white polos to schooling use, and keep your others bright.  White polos look a little silly on light gray horses-- go for the contrast and use a dark color instead.

FEATURED RIDER:

Name: Susan a/k/a "SueCoo2" 

Age: 51 

Location: Houston, Texas 

Primary horse's name: Cross Fox Kelenna a/k/a "Kikki" 

Age, breed, pertinent info: 

Kikki is a five (5) year old 15.2 Connemara Thoroughbred cross I bought three years ago as an un-started two year old from breeder Beth Blankenship @ Cross Fox Farm in Versailles, Kentucky. She is extremely well bred with Grange Finn Sparrow and Leam Bobby Finn (Carna Bobby) and Ashfield Jovial in her Connemara lines. Ashfield Jovial Joker is one of the top sires of jumping ponies in Ireland. 

On her TB side her dam (Mistflower) is by With Approval who is a very good sire and his sire in particular Caro has an extremely good sport horse reputation. Denny Emerson's stallion Loyal Pal was by Caro. The Caro sire line horses are super athletic, correctly built and they love to jump. Mistflower traces to Boudoir, a VERY high class mare. Her daughter Lady Ambassador produced Coraggioso who was a top 'chaser. My thanks to both "Linny" and "Sassenach" from the COTH BB for assisting me in researching her lineage. 

Kikki and I had a rough start. I had some health issues (I'm a recovering alcoholic/addict) which needed addressing and it prevented me from really working and riding her in a consistent manner. She excels when in a consistent program and has an excellent work ethic. Kikki , though backed and started when she turned three, could be a little difficult. Though she is a "HOT" mare, she is the type of horse I have always been drawn to, as she is super smart and extremely brave. 

With my health issue addressed, a new set of goals, and a plan (see short term goals), we are forming a wonderful partnership and I am very much looking forward to our journey together. She has taught me patience, perseverance, trust, and humility. She's learning that our journey will be fun. 

Level currently competing: GAG / Beginner Novice 

Short term goals this spring/summer: 

To attend the Lucinda Green clinic in June at Greenwood Farm and to successfully compete at her first show. We'd like to end the summer with a trip to the beach for a good gallop, and a Jim Graham clinic in September. Year-end goals: To have a happy, healthy, and well educated horse who enjoys her work and our time together. For myself, to remain sober, develop my skill set and apply for the 2011 USEA Worth the Trust Scholarship. 

Overall goals? 

To one day do a Training 3Day. I also want to clinic with Jim Wofford (I loved his book "Take a Good Look Around") and attend a Denny Emerson Adult Eventing camp. Ultimately, I'd love to take Kikki to the AEC at Carl Bouckaert's farm Chattahoochee Hills one day. 

What's the best thing you've learned recently? 

That a horse can be the best medicine no matter what ails you. 

Favorite eventing moment/story? 

In 1998 I attended the first CCI **** event ever to be held in North America. The Rolex 3Day in Lexington, Kentucky. I was a "Hunter Princess" at the time and didn't really know a lot about the "crazy" sport of Eventing. All I knew was that they did three phases and jumped BIG solid obstacles. I met fox hunter extraordinaire Mat Simpson and a slew of other people I'd been communicating with on the COTH bulletin board. Here is a picture from the "The Officially Scheduled Internet Equestrians Rolex Bank Photo". That's me in the center knelling. As long as I live I will never forget what it was like to walk out there on that first **** course! It literally took my breath away. It was like the Wizard of Oz and I was Dorothy dropped into some amazing wonderland!! But unlike Dorothy, I NEVER wanted to go home! The horses were spectacular, the riding simply amazing and the camaraderie I witnessed and felt between the spectators and competitors was truly heartwarming. I fell in love the Spring of '98 with this amazing sport. 

 All Wrapped Up:  Stable Bandages

Wrapping legs is a skill that every horse owner should have, and preferably before they actually need to do it. There's no need to routinely wrap a horse's legs, but it can be helpful in some situations:

Improperly-applied wraps can do a lot of damage. The blood supply to the tendons in the back of the horse's leg is easily compromised if the wrap is too tight, if it is applied with uneven pressure, or if it slips down and bunches up as a result.

How much tension to use when applying a wrap depends on the materials and is something you just have to learn by experience. A properly applied bandage will stay in place without slipping and will lie snug against the skin, but not snug enough to indent it. You should be able to slide a fingertip between the bandage and the leg.  Gentle twisting of the wrap should not allow it to slide around the leg.

Materials:

A stable bandage consists of a leg pad ("quilt") and an outer bandage.  The leg pad comes in several different styles: foam-filled, cotton batting, sheet cotton, "no-bows," etc.  Make sure the padding is adequate and even, without any lumps which could cause pressure points.  Most prefer Wilkers brand wraps (cotton outer, quilted flannel lining, foam padding between), or plain cotton-batting filled wraps.  An average horse will wear 14" quilts in front, 16" behind (18" for taller horses).  A very large horse will go up 2", smaller horses/ponies down 2". 

The outer bandage may be flannel, or the popular, colored polyester wraps. The polyester wraps stretch just a little, so be aware of this and don't pull them too tight!  Flannels are the traditional wrap of choice, but their lack of stretch means you have to work a bit to keep them wrinkle-free.  Whatever you choose, the wrap should be at least 10 feet long, preferably 12 feet so you don't feel "rushed" to finish a hind leg wrap. 

First, make sure the leg area that the bandage will cover is clean. Brush the hair so that it is lying smoothly.  Apply any topical medications that you wish to use (we will discuss poultice, liniments, sweats, etc in a future topic).

You can find several different sets of instructions on how to wrap legs properly. One frequently quoted says to always wrap from outside to inside, front to back, going clockwise on the right leg and counterclockwise on the left. However, if you're right-handed, the counterclockwise wrapping is awkward, making it difficult to apply smoothly, and vice versa if you're left-handed.

The important things to remember when bandaging are:

• Always start the wrap over bone, not the tendons.
• Bring the wrap around the front of the cannon bone first.
• End the wrap along the cannon bone as well.
  

Apply the leg pad so that it lies smoothly along the leg, with no wrinkles. While holding the padding in place lightly with one hand, begin the outer bandage by tucking it under the end of the cotton for a short distance, then wrapping in the same direction, first down to cover the fetlock joint, then back up again to end at the top of the leg. Each layer should overlap the one before by about half the width of the bandage.

One of the trickiest things to learn is where to start the outer bandage so that you finish wrapping at the top of the leg without too much bandage left over, or not enough left. This is going to depend on the length of your bandage (9 or 12 feet), the width (between 4 and 6 inches) and how much stretch it has, as well as how long the horse's cannon bone is. In most cases, you're just going to have to experiment with your bandaging materials to find out what works best, but in general the outer bandage is started anywhere from halfway up the cannon bone to just above the fetlock joint, worked down to take in the fetlock, then brought back up again.

When you first start learning to wrap legs, you'll feel like you could use at least one other hand and will likely botch your first attempts. Be patient. Like any skill, it just takes practice.  The more you wrap, the better you will be at maintaining even tension throughout, and knowing your materials.  Having someone experienced give you a few hands-on lessons is very important! 

What makes a good wrap?

Even tension!  Consistent pressure from inside to outside, top to bottom.  You can use FIRM pressure, so long as it is the same throughout the leg.  Use the "thump test" (flick the finished wrap with your finger) to listen for tight or loose spots. 

Practice!  The more you use your wraps, the more comfortable you will be knowing where to start/end for the best finished product.  For instance, I know with my 9' wraps, I will have ten revolutions around the leg until I reach the velcro.  I like to have four circuits down to the ankle, then six remaining circuits to finish it off below the knee.

Patience!  Don't be in a hurry.  Take as long as you need to ensure the wrap is the best you can do.  If you feel it may slip down, wrinkle, or be too tight, take it off and start over. 

Good materials.  Use good-quality leg padding, and flannels/wraps of good length with strong velcro.  I prefer velcro at least an inch wide, instead of the thin half-inch strips that never seem to hold well (and create excess pressure).  Roll your wraps tightly!!  This makes it MUCH easier to maintain a snug wrap with even tension, when the wrap practically unrolls itself around the leg.

And now, the Goddess of Grooms will demonstrate everything you need to know about a proper stable bandage:

Breastplates & Breastcollars & Breastgirths

A breastplate, breastcollar, or breastgirth (pick a name, any name) is used to prevent your saddle from sliding back.  In an ideal, flat world, perfect-fitting saddles would never shift from proper position on a horse's back.  But, add in galloping over varied terrain and monster jumps...well even the best saddle might slide a bit.  So, let's find something to strap it down!

Hunting Breastplate

One of the most common, popular styles of saddle-strap-down items is the "hunting breastplate."  This breastplate attaches to the saddle d-rings (or d-savers) and between the front legs at the girth.  It is reasonably effective, but some believe it can restrict the horse's shoulders.  Some models are available with elastic inserts for more shoulder freedom; just beware that the elastic will weaken and stretch over time.  The center ring should rest on the horse's chest muscles, not at the base of the neck (windpipe).  Adjust the side straps accordingly. When properly fitted, you should be able to fit a fist between the horse's chest and the center strap ring; this allows for full extension of the shoulder while galloping.  While standing at rest, you may pull a foreleg forward and notice how it takes the slack in the breastplate.  The center ring allows the use of a martingale attachment-- just be sure the attachment fits properly...many running forks are too short.  When using a martingale and a breastplate, the martingale should go OVER the breastplate-- that is, put the breastplate on the neck first, then the martingale; this way the martingale is unrestricted.  Remember it alphabetically: "B before M!"

Polo Breastcollar

The red breastcollar known everywhere, Bruce Davidson

The polo breastcollar (why it's a "collar" and not a "plate" I'm not sure; I don't make the rules, I just follow them) functions a bit differently than the hunting breastplate.  Its points of attachment lie at the girth, so it cannot pull the points of the saddle tree into the horse's withers.  A neck strap crossing the crest keeps it from slipping down; it should hang horizontally just above the point of shoulder, yet below the base of the windpipe.  The webbing may be made of worsted wool (colors!), leather, or heavy elastic.  Elastic allows a bit of "give," yet may not be 100% reliable to hold your saddle in proper place.  As with the hunting breastplate, the polo breastcollar should allow about a fist to fit inbetween the web and chest while the horse stands at rest.  Elastic versions may be fitted slightly more snugly, but not tight.

5-Point Breastplate

The latest invention in the breastplate market is the "5-point" breastplate which took the event world by storm a few seasons ago.  A hybrid of the hunting style and polo breastcollar, it attaches to your saddle via 5-points (hence the name): each side of the girth, the d-rings, and the girth between the legs.  This distributes pressure nicely, and lifting the attachment point (the fleecy side ring) allows maximum shoulder freedom.  The elastic insert can't hurt, either!  As with the hunting breastplate, however, there is still risk of digging the saddle down into the horse's shoulder blades.  It can make a poorly-fitting saddle even worse, by strapping it down so securely.  Also, cleaning the fleecy bits can be a pain in the butt!  Like hunting breastplates, the 5-point also allows for martingale attachments.  As with hunting styles, be sure the attachments are adjusted correctly.

Jumper Breastgirth

Image via Wikipedia Commons

Why can't these breast-plate/-collar/-girth people just pick a term and stick with it?  The jumper-style breastgirth is essentially the webbing of the polo breastcollar, but without the neck strap.  It attaches only at the saddle d-rings, resting at the base of the neck.  Often made of elastic, or with generous elastic inserts, they allow pretty good freedom of the shoulder. However, it is easy for the webbing to press on the base of the windpipe.  I've never encountered a problem in fitting a breastgirth, but I always worry about it.  This style is more limited in its effectiveness compared to the others-- the horse's neck is the primary object counter-balancing the saddle, as opposed to the horse's chest used by the hunting, polo, and 5-point breastplates.  As with the others, allow 4-5 fingers, or a fist (less if elastic) between the horse and the collar.  The best thing about the jumper breastgirth?  It's great for the lazy...no need to slip it over the horse's head, just attach each side to the d-rings. 

Note: including the full list of Jog-Up topics is getting rather lengthy, so click on the "Sunday Jog-Up" category to see all entries, or use the search function on the upper toolbar.

WANTED:  Your Jog-Up tips and grooming stories!!  Please send me your ideas, failures, and successes so I can share them with the rest of EN!  I'd love to hear any feedback, or see before/after photos of your horse.  Email me at VisionaireEN@gmail.com. 

Girths

An oft-forgotten piece of equipment (both figuratively and literally...I can't tell you how often I've left it at home) the girth is an extremely vital piece of equipment.  Think about it-- you can live with a broken stirrup leather, even a broken bridle...but a broken girth is pretty much the worst thing that could happen while riding.  There are many styles of girths available, made of many different materials, but no matter what you choose, ALWAYS check the elastic and stitching at the buckles for safety. 

Long girths are the traditional saddle-attachment device.  They are most often seen in a shaped, chafeless style to avoid rubs at the elbows.  The "overlay" girth is of the same shape, but with an extra panel of leather across the width to prevent curling at the elbows.  Most of these girths have elastic at one end; it is customary to attach the girth with the elastic on the left side.  If a girth has double elastic, be careful to avoid overtightening which can lead to soreness or rubs.  "Anatomical" girths are also popular; they have a special carved pattern at the elbows, hopefully providing more comfort and preventing the saddle from slipping back.  In my experience, the girth's effectiveness is greatly dependent on the individual horse.

Girths are available in many other materials.  String girths are helpful for some sensitive horses, and/or after body clipping.  The strings allow the skin to breathe, causing less irritation.  Other synthetic fabrics are available, from cloth to fleece to neoprene.  Be sure that cloth girths are washed frequently, as they can become stiff and crusty with dried sweat.  Neoprene girths are quite easy to care for, just hose them off after use and they will remain soft and flexible.  Synthetic fleece may not be as beneficial as real shearling, but it still avoids rubs, and is immensely easier to wash, not to mention cheaper! 

With the recent trend of monoflap saddles, short girths are increasingly prevalent.   Like their long counterparts, you will find them in leather, cloth, fleece, and neoprene.  I generally prefer synthetics over leather for a short girth-- and double-end elastic as well.  It seems to create more even girthing. 

Short girths used to be plain, straight bands of leather-- now they come in all sorts of shapes, contours, and styles.  I tend to like a shaped girth, just to avoid the elbows.  Other girths go to extremes with wide belly pads and fancy buckles to distribute pressure.  I'm sure those things work to some degree, but in most cases I doubt the added expense is really worth it.

The average-sized long girth is a 48" for most normal horses; short girths vary a bit more, but 26" fits a lot of them.  A long girth is "properly fitted" when you have at least two holes above and below the buckles when it is tightened.  A short girth should have the buckles lie about half-way between the horse's elbow and the lower edge of the saddle.  As with the long girth, be sure you have extra holes to allow for last-minute adjustments. 

The girth is only half of what holds your saddle on the horse-- the other half is the actual saddle billets!  Be sure the billets are in good, safe condition.  Do not use any billets that are cracked, dry-rotted, or overly stretched-out.  It is especially important to care for long billets-- these resting right against the horse are exposed to a lot of dirt and sweat.  And long billets only have two-- compared to the average three on short billets-- so it is extremely important to take care of them.

Overgirths

With the disappearance of the long format, overgirths aren't quite as popular as they used to be.  The risk of a billet breaking during a two-hour endurance phase, over steeplechase fences no less, was enough to see every rider using one.  Now, when you're only on the horse for 30 minutes, you have enough faith in your tack that overgirths are a bit more rare.  Not to mention using them with a monoflap is a bit tricky.  If you do use an overgirth (never a bad idea, at prelim and above), be sure your girth has loops sewn on to thread it through.  Any saddler or bridle-repair shop can stitch them on for you.  Or, if you're in a bind (such as if one loop breaks, or is sewn too high), you can create your own loops out of electrical tape.  Just wrap it three or for circuits around, doubled back on itself on the underside to prevent sticking to the overgirth.  I had electrical tape loops that lasted for three seasons or more!

A common overgirth length is 80"; some horses a bit more, others a bit less.  When putting the overgirth on, be sure it buckles under the horse's belly, far away from the rider's leg (it's uncomfortable!).  Try to keep the billet and elastic low, as well, to avoid interference with the rider's thigh or calf.  Some riders like to do up the overgirth while mounted: tighten normal girth, get on and walk around, tighten the regular girth again, then have the groom adjust the overgirth.  Others, like me, tighten the regular girth, and adjust the overgirth before we get on (because we have no groom to do it for us!).  An overgirth should never be tighter than your main girth-- always pull it as tight as you can, and then loosen it one hole.

Other girthy notes:

When the girth is tightened, it's a good idea to stretch the horse's front legs forward to loosen any wrinkled skin that could become chafed. 

Anytime you tighten the girth from the saddle, be careful!  Put your leg forward over the flap, and try to adjust by feel, keeping your head up and alert to your surroundings.  It is generally a better idea to get off and tighten a short girth from the ground, but use extreme caution when you are too lazy and decide to bend over in the saddle.  For this reason, I prefer short girths with large single loops-- easy to tuck in quickly-- rather than individual billet keepers that you must fiddle with an instant too long when your young horse loses his patience and decides to trot off. 

Tighten the girth slowly!  Most horses are not "born girthy," but rather are made that way.  Poor-fitting saddles are the main cause, but cinching up roughly doesn't do you any favors.  Cold-backed horses often benefit from a short walk down the barn aisle before you tighten the girth one final time and mount .  

Pony Clubbers:  We've all heard the lecture about getting your elastic clean for formal inspections.  I've tried pretty much all the concoctions-- toothpaste (PASTE, not gel!), oxyclean, dilute bleach, Whisk, Shout, QuicSilver-- you name it I've used it.  And never been happy with the results.  So what do I recommend?  Go buy a girth with black or brown elastic.  Even if you ONLY use it at USPC events, you will thank yourself a hundred times over.  Trust me on this one!

Note: including the full list of Jog-Up topics is getting rather lengthy, so click on the "Sunday Jog-Up" category to see all entries, or use the search function on the upper toolbar.

WANTED:  Your Jog-Up tips and grooming stories!!  Please send me your ideas, failures, and successes so I can share them with the rest of EN!  I'd love to hear any feedback, or see before/after photos of your horse.  Email me at VisionaireEN@gmail.com. 

 Q & A with the Comment Section

The Jog-Up column generates a fair number of comments each week, and I do my best to read and reply to most of them.  However, I know I've missed a few.  And some of them are really great questions that deserve front-page answers.  So, since we missed the Sunday Jog-Up due to Bromont and the Luhmuhlen jog is today, here is your Wednesday Jog-Up.

Sarah:  Any tips for getting rid of that "hind leg gunk" that seems to thrive come spring time?

A:  Daily currying and hot-towelling (see Shining, Shimmering, Splendid) will help prevent the ickies from starting. It seems simple...but most of us (me included!) sometimes get in a hurry and forget to thoroughly curry those cannons. Sometimes just a little extra attention goes a long way.

If the cannon keratosis has already taken hold, wrapping with a sweat bandage can help clear it up. I use a furacin-based ointment, "faso" (furacin, dmso, scarlet oil, azium), that cleans it up in about 5-7 days. If you catch it early, sometimes a sweat with plain furacin can help.

Also in prevention, make sure your galloping boots are clean. Sweat and gunk can build-up between the boot and the leg, creating an environment prime for ickies. Clean your boots regularly, and dust them lightly with Gold Bond (or off-brand) body powder to absorb sweat and prevent rubbing on the legs.

Anonymous: can you offer tips on covering "white scars" on legs?

A: I usually don't worry about scars on the legs. Most judges don't notice or care. However, at the Thoroughbred sales, they like those legs looking as nice as possible. Grooms use colored chalk to hide any minor imperfections in hair color or small bald spots.

Kaitlyn: In one of your earlier topics you mentioned tail clipping/pulling (finally, someone with the same tail pet peeve!!) However, I would be interested in your thoughts on braiding and bagging or wrapping tails in addition to products such as MTG. Suggestions for washing/maintaining tails in general, keeping them up out of mud, etc, etc. Love the tips!!

 A:  I have had limited experience braiding and bagging tails...but when I did it, I was very happy with the results.  It is especially helpful with gray horses (MARES!) who pee on the tail and seem to stain it every way imaginable.  And if you stick with it, it does help increase length and thickness to some degree.  I used the three-tube braid-in tailbag, and I didn't have any trouble keeping it on.  I know others use anything from tube socks to vetrap; I can't help you there, but there are many methods that work.  I didn't use any special products; just weekly washing with any handy soap (dish soap or shampoo), and then condition it well (whatever's on sale, usually Suave).  I do use Showsheen, but not daily. 

The trick with the tail bag, especially a long tail, is to *knot it* somewhere just below the dock, once the bag is in place.  This knot will keep tension off the top of the bag, limiting the "drag" on the roots and preventing the bag from falling off. 

There are a few things you must accept when obsessing over a horse's tail: 1) you cannot overcome his genetics.  A wispy tail can get a little better, but it's never going to be like a draft horse's.  2) Maximizing the horse's genetic potential takes effort!  Throwing a tail bag on and ignoring it for a month or more is a bad idea.  Take it down weekly, or else the hair becomes too stressed and breaks off.  Limit the use of combs and brushes; use your bare fingers to pick through the tail strand-by-strand.  You don't have to do this every day, but a couple times a month will help.  Benign neglect on a natural tail is helpful, but don't go hacking at it with a brush later.  Remove any burrs, sticks, or foreign objects promptly, before they create a matted mess.  See Taming The Tail for more tips!

Feb 22: "What About Tack Part II"

Heidi:  I cleaned my bridles yesterday using this method and I really loved it! Using dish soapy water was so much better than dealing with the dumb spray cleaner that I have. I liked that my bits could soak while I cleaned, and the dish soap cut through the greasy sweat on the leather. I also melted my glycerine in a Tupperware. It looks a little funny and bubbly, though!

Anonymous:  I like the idea of using Shout, does it help get out the black rub marks from the saddle on the white pads? I never can get those to go go away!

A:  Shout does work well, and so does a paste with detergent, OxyClean, and a little water.  Though I have to admit, I have learned to get over a few black streaks on the girth area of my pads.  The area is covered by your leg...and at the end of the day with many horses to take care of, I tend to let the saddle pads slide.  So long as the visible part of the pad is sparkling clean, I don't worry about the girth loops.

March 28  "Extreme Makeover: Mane Event"

Mischief Maker: So erm i have a question. are you tearing it out at the roots or do you ust break it off at the desired length? I usually use a pulling comb that is really skinny and i wrap my hair around it the pull it out that way. am i doing it wrong? lol thanks

A: Yes, I'm pulling it out at the roots (unless using the clipper blade). Watch the video, you can see I'm removing chunks of 10-inch hair by pulling it straight out. You can certainly use a metal mane comb and wrap it around-- that's how I did it for years! But I find the current method, without the comb-wrapping, a lot easier and faster. And no sharp, pointy comb teeth to cut your knuckles, either. :D As long as the mane ends up thin, short, and braidable, it doesn't matter what comb you use or how you pull it.

Megan: OK, so if you are pulling the mane out by the roots, how do you get the mane at the length you want? You say to tease the mane to the length you want then pull, but if you are pulling it all out...I'm confused. I wrap it around the comb and have to make several passes up and down the mane to get a long mane short. I would love to know how to pull it to a desired length the FIRST time!

A:  Some of the mane you "pull" actually breaks at a shorter length, instead of ripping out at the roots.  Teasing it back frays the hair a bit, weakening it to break instead of pull completely out.  You still may have to go back and touch-up sections to even out length and thickness; it's rare that I'll get the ENTIRE neck done in one fell swoop.  But I can get it pretty close to what I want the first time, and then go back with my fingers and pull any long or thick pieces.

May 16:  "Studs"

Some great reader insights:

LisaB:  Great article. I love how in the beginning you state that every horse is different and you have to basically do trial and error with the horse. Anyway, you forgot another set of studs. The hex type of road studs. My whatever-maybe some draft-we think standardbred-Amish-reject loves the wider face of a hex type of road stud up front and then ones with the grass type of tip in the back. He's very sure footed and with big feet and a flatter mover. He does not like 'sticking'. Also, if your horse has an extravagant front end type of jump (knees up to the ears), you will almost think understudding him up front. If you think you'll need a med. grass tip, go to a small grass tip. They need to 'move' a bit on landing.

Ouchmy:   My farrier recommend a dental pick to take out plugs and help clean stud holes, it is s wonderful tool to have! I ran cross country today and 6/8 of my plugs had fallen out..so not fun to deal with. If my horse hasn't been out in a while, I typically clean and replace plugs the day before I leave for the show so things go smoothly before xc.

May 30  "Bridle Wise"

Lex: Ohhh, good timing! I have a question for you! so I took the mare I Part board to a clinic last week, and discovered that while she really likes her job, I'd like a bit more control of her. She does "grab the bit and run" or she crosses her jaw. For stadium and xc, she goes in a loose rig snaffle. She goes in a loose ring French link for her owner at home. At home, she's not likely to "grab the bit and run", but she does ignore half halts sometimes. And I'm still tryingto figure out when to half halt and leg, and when to stop messing with her and just leg. I'm debating on using a running martingale, or maybe a kineton noseband. It's hard for me to get the same experience trying new equpiment at home, but I also don't like the idea of trying new stuff at an event. Opinions? I'd love a Sunday tip about horse boots. I'm still trying to figure out what to put on her. And I wish i knew more about boots to have an idea of what ones were studied in the video on the USEA.

A:  Without knowing you or your horse, it's very difficult to help you overcome your horse's problems.  Crossing the jaw may be helped by a figure-8 noseband, but the root of the matter is likely that your horse doesn't accept your aids (specifically, the bit).  A running martingale is useful for horses who fling their heads in your face approaching a jump; not so much for a horse that pulls.  I would recommend riding a lot out in the open, practicing your galloping half-halts and transitions, insisting that your horse listen to you NO MATTER WHAT.  If the horse won't listen to you galloping on the flat, how do you expect her to listen when jumps are involved?  Don't be afraid to "rev her up" a bit at home, to get her a little on the muscle like she'll feel at shows.  Play around with different bits if you need to, but try to use the absolute minimum.  Please consult a good trainer who can watch you ride, and offer better advice.

I plan to do a topic on horse boots in the future, I just need to dredge up a bunch of boot styles to try!

There were several comments about the Mickelm Bridle.  I do not have any personal experience with it, though I am intrigued by its design.  I have heard a few positive reports, yet I remain a bit too skeptical to purchase one for myself.  At this point, my horses are fine in a normal bridle, so "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."  There is plenty of information about the bridle available, I would recommend a search on the Chronicle forums for first-hand reports.

- - - - - -

Thank you to all the loyal Jog-Up readers and commenters.  It was actually quite fun to read back through 21 weeks of topics-- hard to believe I've been writing this long!  I have some good ideas for future articles-- boot polishing, fitting horse boots and other tack, and an actual lesson on presenting/jogging the horse in hand.  As any groom knows, the list of things to be done is endless...so if your topic isn't up yet, it will be eventually!

Note: including the full list of Jog-Up topics is getting rather lengthy, so click on the "Sunday Jog-Up" category to see all entries, or use the search function on the upper toolbar.

WANTED:  Your Jog-Up tips and grooming stories!!  Please send me your ideas, failures, and successes so I can share them with the rest of EN!  I'd love to hear any feedback, or see before/after photos of your horse.  Email me at VisionaireEN@gmail.com. 

 Weapons of War

My trainer often recited an old Jack LeGoff mantra: "Never go to war without your weapons."  In other words, always be prepared with your whip and spurs.  "But my horse NEVER stops/runs out at corners/avoids skinnies/quits at ditches!" some students would say.  And then the horse would promptly perform the "never" disobedience, and the unarmed rider would sheepishly accepted a whip from another student. 

What can we learn from this?  ALWAYS BE PREPARED, have your whip and spurs with you.  I don't often school with a dressage whip, but if I know a horse might be lazy I will carry one.  I pretty much always ride in spurs...actually I live in them, never take them off (Shhh, don't tell Pony Club).  It is far better to have your "weapons" and not need them, than need it and not have it.

But, having the proper tools is important.  Lesson #1 was bring your whip; lesson #2 was bring a GOOD whip!  No wimpy whips allowed!  Crops less than 20" are basically useless, as are those thin-as-a-pencil whippy-whips.  I prefer a stout whip, long enough that the horse can see it easily when I'm insisting YES, YOU MUST JUMP THE CORNER! 

I prefer a whip around 24", but the rules (EV 114.3) state that any jumping whip must not exceed 30" in length or be weighted at the end. Jockey whips can be customized in length, stiffness, and color, so they are a great resource.  I do NOT like hand loops, as it can be difficult to switch your whip from hand to hand (and, as PC says, you could get caught up in it).  Instead, pop a rubber martingale stop over the butt-end of the whip, and it will be much less likely to slip from your hand.

Choose a whip that is comfortable to you-- a grip that is thin enough to hold with the reins, yet wide enough not to slip through your fingers.  Flexibility is a matter of personal taste, as is balance between the flapper end and the grip end.  Whatever whip you choose, practice using it with either hand (sit on a barrel or log if you can't find a suitably naughty pony that needs a good beating). 

Left: wimpy whip.  Too short!!

Middle: Golf-grip bat with martingale stopper.  Stiff, but effective.  25"

Right: Tapered-grip jockey whip.  25"

Dressage whips are also a personal preference.  The rules state that the whip must not exceed 47.2" including lash.  Also, know that you may not carry a whip in the ring for championship or FEI divisions. 

Whips are generally used to reinforce FORWARD!  Most of the time, use the whip behind the saddle to send the horse forward and punish a disobedience.  Hitting the horse on the shoulder (NEVER in front of it, unless you want to get disqualified) can sometimes help cure a runout or drift, but you must be sure "forward" is fixed first.

Spurs are generally a more refined aid-- not so much to encourage FORWARD as "move more."  Move more sideways, move more up, move more out.  The horse should already be in front of your leg; spurs just amplify the response.  An instructor once demonstrated it for us in Pony Club: walk up behind a friend, and poke her sharply in the ribs on each side.  Does the friend jump forward?  No, she jumps upwards out of her chair.  Poking the horse with spurs should not inspire a "running" forward response, but rather a jumping up or sideways movement.  Spurs help back up your leg during lateral work, or bending.  That said, when I'm jumping and I need MORE NOW, a quick squeeze of the spur will usually get you across a distance when you need it. 

Spurs come in many varieties; just remember they must not exceed 1-3/8", must be smooth metal, and not capable of wounding a horse.  The shank must point downwards; rowels, if used in dressage, must be smooth and free-rotating. Swan-neck spurs, and shank-less spurs are allowed, as are roller-ball spurs (plastic or mretal).  Spurs are mandatory at the Intermediate and Advanced levels. 

A good all-purpose spur is about 3/4" in length, with a blunt end (usually Prince of Wales style).  You and your horse will determine whether you need more or less, depending on how reactive he is to the aid.  When fitting a spur, be sure the shank is parallel to the ground; move it up or down on the strap to keep it level.  Moving a spur higher on the boot increases its effect; keeping it low on the heel makes it harder to use (good for sensitive horses, less accidental bumping). 

"Hammerhead" spur, level with ground with rubber straps

Spur straps may be leather (hard to keep clean, will rot), nylon (will fray, but infinitely adjustable), or rubber (will rot eventually).  I LOVE rubber spur straps-- I can leave them on my boots, and they will stretch a little bit to let me take the boot on and off.  After a few years of abuse, the holes may crack...but they are cheap and very useful for everyday riding.  It is traditional for the spur buckle to be centered, or slightly outside-of-center on the boot.  Excess strap should tuck neatly into keepers; cut off any flapping ends.  The spur itself should be fitted with the longer branch on the outside of the foot, shorter branch on the inside.

While pretty much anyone can use a whip, a good rider must "earn" her spurs.  Riders should have a quiet, steady lower leg before wearing spurs.  It's painful to watch a horse accidentally bump-bump-bumped every stride as a rider jabs her horse in the ribs from lack of coordination and balance.  The horse will either become dull to the aid, or overreact.  Neither is desirable!